To read the full adventure go to the
Diary page and for the more interesting photos of part one go to the
highlight pictures page.
I did it! Finally, after nearly 20 years of harboring a dream to take a big bike trip I got it together and set off journeying from the UK, through France, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Iran, UAE and Oman. Covering 15,000 miles during 6 months. Once on the road with all the visas pretty much sorted, life was far easier than I thought it would be. It could be summarised as; get up, find somewhere to get something to eat, find somewhere to get petrol, find somewhere to go, find somewhere to get something else to eat, wander about a bit and then find somewhere to sleep.
What did I enjoy the most you may wonder?
In the end I think it was the different natural landscapes I saw emphasising the sheer beauty of the earth from the steep rock faces of the Meteora region in Greece to the very flat and barren empty, yet strangely engaging, deserts of southern Oman and the Gorges du Tarn region of France was a delight.

It goes nearly without saying I met plenty of interesting people. I remember the farmer and his son working their land with small tractors who stopped to talk to me. We laughed and joked for maybe 10 minutes yet the only words we had in common where 'disc' and Massey Ferguson. In Iran the newly wed couple who took me into my first Muslim house making me feel very welcome while keeping the females away from me. The girl on the train in Iran who 5 months later still e-mails me at least once a month. The policeman in Oman who took me in and each drove me down to the beach to drink whiskey before we'd go watching dancing girls in the local hotel. The B&B lady in Italy who helped make my birthday something special. Stephan, who let me stay nearly 8 weeks in Sharjah while I did some computer contracting and who showed me the real UAE desert (from both a motorbike and a 4x4 naturally) and made my parents feel welcome when they visited Dubai. Meeting other motorcycle travelers 'living the dream' and riding along with them for a while before we’d split and go our own ways was fantastic. There were numerous people who out of their sheer generosity hosted me as I rode through their respective towns and villages all of them bringing new experiences and views of life to me. Staying with the young teachers in East Turkey and joining the English teacher in the village school the next day where the pupils treated me as a super-star was definitely an experience to enjoy.
Another highlight was Abi flying out to join me not once but twice. Though the second time was unfortunately when Vafa- as the VFR was know at that point- was locked away in the customs shed on the UAE harbor because of the Muslim EID holiday. Having a picnic in the desert with my parents was also very special moment I will cherish.
What did I learn?
It is easy! Once I got rolling, being on the big trip was simple with many people especially outside of Europe being very interested in a guy on a big bike often offering their help and accommodation without the slightest reluctance and usually very generously. Maybe in Europe I was just another biker so did not stand out like in Turkey, Iran and Oman.
Part one confirmed that I much prefer the countryside to the big cities. The countryside gives the best views of the natural earth and its ever changing beauty. In the rural areas I found the people to be so much more friendly, while in the cities I was just another tourist lost in a crowd. At the moment I look forward to seeing temples and buddha’s but I don’t need to see any more Castles, Catherals or Mosques. I guess I might say the same about temples and Buddha’s later on. Some of the best experiences I had with the locals where in the countryside. Three or more times in rural Turkey I met local land workers and spent 10 minutes or so laughing and joking with them - even though neither of us could speak the others language.
I also learned how much I crave time on my own for my thoughts and to let my mind expand, run free and create new ideas. Donning my helmet and riding is the perfect environment for this while still giving me a visual simulation to enjoy the journey. The ideas that camed to me would vary from ways to improve the world to new business ventures to different artistic items to make on my return.
However in the hours between the sun going down and rolling out my sleeping mat was when I found I would seek out and enjoy company. This might just be talking to the locals who’d gather around Vafa as I sat outside at a plastic table on a garage forecout in Oman or wandering over to any one else sharing the campsite.
One of the surprises was just how many religious believers there are and how keen they are. It proved a real relief to meet three very articulate ex-believers in Oman and enjoy some very interesting discussions with them. I found that I am very much a believer of women’s rights and that they should have equal opportunities as the men. Having to wear a scarf or a black cloak and walk with their gaze looking down seems just a way of making women appear as second class to me.
How did it change me?
I found it amazing just how nice complete strangers were to me and this is something I want to change in myself so instead of a natural English reserved concern about each stranger it would be life changing to welcome strangers assuming they only have good intentions.
What did I miss of the UK?
Tradition has it I must say I missed family and friends but via the internet I never felt very far away from them. I did however miss my Mum’s fruit cake with a slice of cheese, baked potates, sitting around the living room fire, cycling and tandeming among the green rolling hills with the fresh, clear English air to breathe, dancing and the music scene.
What are my tips for anyone thinking of setting out on their own big trip?
An electrically heated waistcoat is an amazing invention allowing so many clothes to be left at home - get one.
Oh and always carry some biscuits. Just offering a packet of biscuits around to a few strangers can open so many doors and with that so many adventures and new experiences.